For our adventure, we consulted the guide 'The World-Famous Alaska Highway: a guide to the Alcan & other wilderness roads of the north'. The book was formatted to start your trip in BC and drive north to Alaska. To stay on the right path, we read the book backwards. Sometimes it was confusing; other times we read about points of interest after they had passed. One thing is certain, starting our trip in the northern Yukon placed us in a lonely wilderness that was all but devoid of human activity. It was easy to feel that hardly a soul had ever dwelt there. However, if visiting Whitehorse returned us to civilization, then visiting Watson Lake reminded us that a steady stream of adventurers had traveled into the great north prior to our arrival.
During WWII, the US and Canada launched a joint venture to construct a highway that connected the lower 48 to Alaska. This is known as the Alaska Canada Military Highway, or Alcan. In 1942, a homesick soldier from Illinois, who was conscripted to help build the Alcan, nailed a sign from his hometown on a pole in Watson Lake. Almost 70 years later, approximately 70,000 signs from around the world are posted in the Watson Lake Sign Garden. It servers as an impressive reminder that you are not the first, nor by any means the last, person to trek through this part of the world.
Between Willow and Palmer (near Wasilla) is a stretch of scenic drive called Hatcher Pass. While not on the usual group tours route it is mentioned in tour books. Last summer we took my folks out this way and were treated to some beautiful scenery and a refreshing hike.
Our drive through the Yukon Territory started precariously. The freezing and thawing of the tundra cause the roadway to undulate like a rickety roller coaster. This turbulent stretch of potholed pavement is known as the frost heaves. We almost didn't make it into Canada because of the fiercely entrenched battle my brother had with the Canadian border agent. The conversation went like this-
Agent: What's the nature of your visit?
Josh: We're here to mind our own business. Why? What's the nature of your job?
Agent: Do you have any alcohol and tobacco in your vehicle?
Josh: We might have some of it left, but we had a really hearty breakfast. You looking for a fix?
Agent: Do you have any firearms in your possession?
Josh: Just these two babies (kissing his biceps)
Agent: Are you planning on leaving anything behind in Canada?
Josh: Yep! A ton of garbage!
I don't know if that's exactly how the conversation went, but that's how I remember it. Fortunately, the border guard was kind enough to let us through. Although the car shook from the seismic road shocks, the scenery was as spectacular as the Tok Cutoff. Further south on the Alcan highway, the frostline moves deeper underground. At this latitude, trees can extend their roots and grow taller than their northern counterparts. During this section of the trip, we also spotted an elk herd, a porcupine, a fox, arctic swan, and two black bears.
Known as tribal herds, the elk in this region are numerous. They officially belong to the indigenous peoples:
The highlight of the drive was the bears. We hoped to see some, although several natives we spoke to said they had never see a bear.
By the time we reached Whitehorse, it was nearly midnight. Although some daylight lingered, it was too late to setup camp, sleep soundly, and wake up refreshed for another day's drive. The section of Whitehorse along the Alcan highway looks like every other wayside rest stop we had seen for miles. Our chances of finding a clean motel seemed bleak. However, the travel guide listed multiple hotels, including a West Mark and a Best Western. We decided to explore "downtown". We turned off of the highway and ventured about two miles. Darkness had fallen as we came around a final curve. Nestled in the valley was a city of lights- Whitehorse- an oasis on the edge of a vast virgin land. This was a welcome sight to weary travels. We quickly found a place to rest a bit and wake up as all civilized men should, to Tim Horton's double double and a strawberry vanilla donut.
The 270 mile stretch of road from Wasilla to Tok exceeded the beauty of every thing we have seen. Majestic peaks rise above the banks of spruce-lined river. Every turn in the Alaska highway 1 (Tok Cutoff) is a unique and stunning vista. If it wasn't for the swarms of flies and mosquitos, we would have spent the entire day with our mouths agape.
A glacier creeps out of a valley:
A moose sighting! We had just stopped at a roadside shack for coffee:
I drove the entire route from Palmer to Tok, about 300 miles. As we neared Tok, I was ready for lunch and to transfer driving duties. Perhaps I hastened our arrival too much. Add Alaska to the list of states where I've made new friends :-(
Well Dunn, the second days travel ended with a beautiful 'almost sunset' in the mountains. We are in Palmer, which is a small town just north of Anchorage, at a bed and breakfast. We have a three man cottage with bunk beds and a queen size bed. The ol' man won the coin toss and landed in the queenie! (actually they let me have the big bed gladly - so that I would stop crying)! We are headed to Whitehorse Yukon Canada today - nestled in the Canadian Rockies, a 13.5 hour drive! This will be the longest days drive because there is nothing in between the border and Whitehorse. There should be - eventually - some awesome pictures posted. Breakfast is served - Josh cooked some scrambled eggs and sausage with a 'hi-ho' muffin. Gotta go Whatever you do today - "may it be 'well dunn"
Previously, on the blog... I HAVEN'T SEEN A MOOSE!!!
Today that changed.
Dad arrived in Fairbanks last night. This morning, the three of us drove the old Haul road north of the Arctic Circle. Before we left the borough, we spotted our first moose strolling along the road. Our approach rushed the moose from the road, and we were slow with our camera shutters. Although it was an official moose sighting, I was not satisfied with the quality, as you can see from this photo. There are better shots of Sasquatch.
After trekking 255 miles north, we arrived in Coldfoot, which is little more than a rest-stop. If you watch Ice Road Truckers on Discovery, this is a familiar area. The old haul road, or Dalton Highway, is the same route used for transporting supplies to the oil rigs in Prudhoe Bay and Deadhorse.
Our destination in Coldfoot was well short of road's terminus at the Arctic Ocean. After enjoying a campsite-cooked lunch and scenic views of the Brooks Mountain range, we turned back south and headed for Fairbanks. Within ten miles, we saw a moose... and then half a mile further, we saw another moose! Now I consider my trip successful. (Although I have seen moose wandering through rural Quebec and Maine before, seeing an Alaskan moose was important to me.) Now if we can spot a bear for dad, our entire trip will be complete. I'm thinking about leaving a bucket of chicken wings outside his tent at night. That should do the trick.
Here is our second moose from the trip:
A brief overview of Coldfoot:
Some of the turns on the Dalton Highway are extremely treacherous. Even the veteran truckers agree:
A final note. We are thrilled that dad has joined us on the trip:
One of Alaska's primary attractions is diverse wildlife. Puffins, polar bears, seals, whales, walrus, moose, muskox, and caribou... just to name a few.
While visiting the Museum of the North on the University of Alaska Fairbanks campus, my brother and I saw a vast collection of taxidermic trophies that would make Teddy Roosevelt blush. Here are some of the other wildlife that we have seen with our own eyes.
Sand Hill Cranes combing the tundra for grubs:
Muskoxen at the Large Animal Research Station (LARS):
An homage to the state bird:
And much to my disappointment, this is the only moose I've seen. Is that a chip on my shoulder? No, it's a moosed opportunity:
